Later on in April we returned to Scotland to visit the Isle of Mull as Gary was hosting a workshop photographing eagles with Mull Charters. We took the motorhome and I spent my time revisiting some of the very first peaks I ever climbed on Mull and exploring some I’d never been to before. It felt really special to be back. There are parts of Mull that feel as familiar to me now as my local hills back home in Wales.

On the first walk of the visit I heard my first cuckoo of the year, which is always a special moment. The cuckoo has one of those calls that instantly tells you Summer is on the way. From Ulva Ferry where we were staying I had a lovely leisurely walk into the hills above Lagganulva. While up there it was also a nice coincidence to visit a trig point (Beinn na Drise) on the anniversary of the trig point itself! I do love a trig!

For anyone reading this who is interested in the route: it starts near Lagganulva, where a track leads up into the hills towards the deserted village of Bruach Mhor after which the route becomes pathless except for animal tracks. I headed up the Laggan Burn to reach the summit of Beinn na Drise and it’s trig. Once up on the ridge, it’s a straightforward and enjoyable undulating walk along to Beinn Bhuide and Cnoc an dà Chinn passing a lovely lochan along the way. There is a real sense of remoteness up here and in all the years I've been walking in this area, I've never seen another person, plenty of deer though, and on one visit I had a very very close encounter with an eagle who was feeding on a sheep carcass. This absolutely huge bird appeared from nowhere and flew away, disappearing behind some boulders, a moment I'll never forget. I returned down via the Allt Mòr which narrows into a gorge in places and eventually reaches the Eas Mor waterfall, then I looped back over to Bruach Mhor and followed the track back down to Lagganulva.

This was a really lovely day on familiar hills, full of memories old and new.

Ulva Ferry was my base again the following day. It’s simply easier to stay local when Gary is working with Mull Charters, so I know I can get back in time to pick him up when he finishes. This time, I drove to the stunning Eas Mòr waterfall , a short drive along the road, and started the walk from there with Nala by my side as always.

It turned into a truly beautiful day, with constantly shifting views across to the Ben More range, Ulva, Gometra, and the Treshnish Isles, and further still to Rum, Ardnamurchan, and layer upon layer of mainland mountains. It was one of those days where you are stopping every five minutes to look around with a quiet 'wow'.

Once up on the ridge, the terrain was mostly easy walking. Starting from the Eas Mòr car park, I followed the track past the mast and then the Allt Mòr where I'd descended the previous day, climbing steadily back up to the slopes of Cnoc an dà Chinn . From there, I continued over to Beinn Bhuide (a different one to the previous day), and on to the trig point at Beinn na Clach-corra. On the return, I diverted to Cruachan Loch Tràtha, which delivered some of the most beautiful views I’ve seen on Mull, looking down onto a huge loch and over to Ulva and beyond. The views were helped, of course, by the glorious weather. I sat here for a while just mesmerised.

The following day was a gentler one, spent wildlife watching with Gary and simply enjoying the island together. But the best was still to come, with an exciting walk planned for our final full day on Mull.

Gary was meeting a friend to look for otters, and he dropped me off at the road below the Ardmeanach Peninsula , an area I’d been fascinated by for years but had never explored. I’d seen it's coastline it a few times from the sea with Mull Charters, on the map it’s known simply as “The Wilderness”. That name alone hints at the remoteness of the place, and I couldn’t wait to head up there.

It was as wild and wonderful as I’d hoped, with fabulous views in every direction, and was the perfect walk to end the trip. There are no paths out here, just deer tracks, and I found practically no information online on walking routes. I always try to research routes beforehand, but Mull’s hills often remain a mystery unless you’re heading for the Munro, Ben More or the Corbett, Dùn da Ghaoithe. So I mapped out a rough route, trusted my instincts, and set off. It was pretty straightforward though, sticking to the high ground all the way to the end of the peninusula.

The day began under cloud, with mist clinging to the hills, before gradually opening into a beautifully clear day, although a little breezy. It was wild, remote, and utterly wonderful. Golden plover calling across the moor, their voices especially atmospheric in the mist. Deer moving quietly through the hills. And three separate sightings of white-tailed eagles soaring overhead. It was thankfully mostly dry underfoot, with rolling hills broken by rocky slabs and outcrops, scattered lochans and crags, with each summit offering its own unique perspective on the landscape.

The highlight for me was the climb to the trig point on Creach Bheinn, standing high above what the map so perfectly names The Wilderness.

I always put together short reels of my walks to share on Instagram. They may seem repetitive to some, but to me they’re precious. They are records of wild places that leave a mark on me. I love the quote, “Every place you go becomes a part of you somehow.” My reels, and these written words, are my way of documenting my connection to the wild places I've been. They hold memories of special moments, big skies, the wind in my hair, the sun on my face, birdsong, and the rhythm of my steps. Even if no one but me ever watches them, they are there to remind me that I was there, I felt something special and it mattered to me.

From Creach Bheinn, I continued on to the final peak, Bearraich, at the far end of the peninsula, where I stopped for a well-earned sausage roll from the Coffee Pot in Salen. From there, I gradually made my way back over Beinn nan Uan, Meall nan Capall, Creag nam Fitheach, Fionna Mham, Eag Fionna Mham, Beinne na Sreine, and Beinn na h-Iolaire, before descending from Creag a’ Ghaill into Gleann Seilisteir, where I waited for Gary to come and collect me.

A long, quiet journey through wild hills, where I was the only human around, the perfect way to end this visit to Mull. It wouldnt be too long before I'm back though!