Rambling On Blog
19/01/2026

APRIL 2025 - OUR FIRST TRIP OF THE YEAR TO MULL

We have been visiting the Isle of Mull several times a year for many years now. Gary runs wildlife photography workshops from here and while he is working I normally head for the hills.. The weather for this trip was perfect and I enjoyed revisiting some familiar hills as well as exploring an area that has been on my radar for many years
Later on in April we returned to Scotland to visit the Isle of Mull as Gary was hosting a workshop photographing eagles with Mull Charters. We took the motorhome and I spent my time revisiting some of the very first peaks I ever climbed on Mull and exploring some I’d never been to before. It felt really special to be back. There are parts of Mull that feel as familiar to me now as my local hills back home in Wales.

On the first walk of the visit I heard my first cuckoo of the year, which was wonderful. The cuckoo has one of those calls that instantly roots you in the moment and the season. From Ulva Ferry where we were staying I had a lovely leisurely walk into the hills above Lagganulva. While up there it was also a nice coincidence to visit a trig point (Beinn na Drise) on the anniversary of the trig point itself! I do love a trig!

For anyone reading this who is interested in the route: it starts near Lagganulva, where a track leads up into the hills towards the deserted village of Bruach Mhor. From there I headed up the Laggan Burn to reach the summit of Beinn na Drise and it’s trig. Once up on the ridge, it’s a straightforward and enjoyable undulating walk along to Beinn Bhuide and Cnoc an dà Chinn passing a lovely lochan along the way. There is a real sense of remoteness up here and in all the years I've been walking in this area, I've never seen another person - plenty of deer though - and on one visit I had a very very close encounter with an eagle who was feeding on a sheep carcass. I returned down via the Allt Mòr which narrows into a gorge in places and eventually reaches the Eas Mor waterfall, then I looped back over to Bruach Mhor and followed the track back down to Lagganulva.

This was a really lovely day on familiar hills, full of memories old and new.

Ulva Ferry was my base again the following day. It’s simply easier to stay local when Gary is working, so I know I can get back in time to pick him up when he finishes. This time, I drove to the stunning Eas Mòr waterfall and started the walk from there with Nala by my side as always.

It turned into a truly beautiful day, with constantly shifting views across to the Ben More range, Ulva, Gometra, and the Treshnish Isles, and further still to Rum, Ardnamurchan, and layer upon layer of mainland mountains. It was one of those days where you find your-self stopping every five minutes, saying wow.

Once up on the ridge, the terrain was mostly easy walking. Starting from the Eas Mòr car park, I followed the track past the mast and then the Allt Mòr, climbing steadily to the slopes of Cnoc an dà Chinn. From there, I continued over to Beinn Bhuide, and on to the trig point at Beinn na Clach-corra. On the return, I diverted to Cruachan Loch Tràtha, which delivered some of the most beautiful views I’ve seen on Mull, helped, of course, by the glorious weather.

The following day was a gentler one, spent wildlife watching with Gary and simply enjoying the island together. But the best was still to come, with an exciting walk planned for our final full day on Mull.

Gary was meeting a friend to look for otters, and he dropped me off at the road below the Ardmeanach Peninsula , an area I’d been fascinated by for years but had never explored. I’d seen it a few times from the sea with Mull Charters, and on the map it’s known simply as “The Wilderness”. That name alone hints at the remoteness and rawness of the place, and I couldn’t wait to head up there.

It was as wild and wonderful as I’d hoped, with fabulous views in every direction, and felt like the perfect walk to end the trip. There are no paths out here, just deer tracks, and I found very little information online on walking routes. I always try to research routes beforehand, but Mull’s hills often remain a mystery unless you’re heading for the Munro Ben More or the Corbett Dùn da Ghaoithe. So I mapped out a rough route, trusted my instincts, and set off.

The day began under cloud, with mist clinging to the hills, before gradually opening into a beautifully clear day, if a little breezy. What I found was wild, remote, and utterly wonderful. Golden plover calling across the moor, their voices especially atmospheric in the mist. Deer moving quietly through the hills. And three separate sightings of white-tailed eagles soaring overhead. Rolling hills broken by rocky slabs and outcrops, scattered lochans and crags, and each summit offering its own unique perspective on the landscape.

The highlight for me was the climb to the trig point on Creach Bheinn, standing high above what the map so perfectly names The Wilderness.

I always put together short reels of my walks to share on Instagram. They may seem repetitive to some, but to me they’re precious. They are records of wild places that leave a mark on me. I love the quote, “Every place you go becomes a part of you somehow.” My reels, and these written words, are my way of documenting my connection to the wild places I've been. They hold memories of special moments, big skies, the wind in my hair, the sun on my face, birdsong, and the steady rhythm of my steps. Even if no one but me ever watches them, they’re no less valuable. They remind me that I was there, I felt something and it mattered to me.

From Creach Bheinn, I continued on to the final peak, Bearraich, at the far end of the peninsula, where I stopped for a well-earned sausage roll from the Coffee Pot in Salen. From there, I gradually made my way back over Beinn nan Uan, Meall nan Capall, Creag nam Fitheach, Fionna Mham, Eag Fionna Mham, Beinne na Sreine, and Beinn na h-Iolaire, before descending from Creag a’ Ghaill into Gleann Seilisteir, where I waited for Gary to come and collect me.

A long, quiet journey through wild hills, where I was the only human around, the perfect way to end this visit to Mull. It wouldnt be too long before I'm back though!